The oddly named Opa: The Phoenician stands out in Federal Hill's increasingly diverse dining scene --- a Lebanese restaurant (well, mostly) in a part of Providence once dominated by both old school and nouvelle Italian eateries. Perhaps out of a sense of perceived obligation, the offerings include several Italian dishes, from calamari to chicken Parmesan and smoked salmon fettuccine. However, we suggest zeroing in on chef Joseph Karan's Lebanese specialties. Start with warm pita bread and a balsamic dipping sauce; the bread is far better than the vinegary dip. Things improve from there, however: the kafta plate includes six pieces of the rolled mix of ground lamb, beef, onion, parsley and Mediterranean spices, nicely charred. The chicken brick --- named for the stone that presses the deboned breast down as it cooks --- is crisp and succulent, redolent of a marinade consisting of yogurt, garlic, paprika and black pepper, with more garlic sauce on the side. Hummus is mild but flavorful, washed down by a serviceable sangría. If you really want to embrace the spirit of the place, come for hookah and belly dancing on Lebanese Night (Wednesdays and Sundays).
