Just south of the Port Authority on an otherwise residential block, you'd be surprised to come across Mercato. Tiny from the front with a more spacious room in back, this quintessential neighborhood restaurant (everyone is a regular) serves up simple Italian fare. The wine list is smartly separated by region with a little something from Sardinia to Puglia and with lots of nice bottles priced under $40. You're greeted with fresh bread and lentils in oil to nibble while you peruse the menu. Though service is warm and friendly, the food can be inconsistent---dishes tasting fresh and delicate one night, mass-produced another, such as burrata, milky and runny one night, firm the next. Winners can be found in warm octopus with potatoes. Homemade pastas are, more often than not, the star here; most popular among them, the simply satisfying ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, over a butter sage sauce. The dessert list carries a stable of regulars: panna cotta, tiramisu and affogato but go with the almond semifreddo, with pistachios and served with chocolate and honey.
